Friday, September 27, 2019

Converting a collared shirt into a clergy shirt

I have been making some shirts I found at Goodwill into clergy shirts for my spouse, and I had lots of people ask how to do it and it's not really my knowledge to keep to myself, so I figured if I can help clergy folx save some money, then I better do it! We've been blessed by "hacks" like this in various capacities, so here it goes! If it feels like there's a step missing somewhere or you have any questions, comment below and I will fix it. I don't have the technology to do a tutorial video that would be helpful right now.
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What you’ll need: 

Fabric scissors 
Straight pins
Sewing machine 
Thread that matches the stitching of the shirt
Collar tab of choice (some are thicker or thinner than others) 

Step 1: Find the right shirt to convert

We want a shirt that has a malleable collar, but not one that is too flimsy. I have found that the ones without fancy collar tabs and reinforced collars (you can feel the cardboard-like reinforcement when you bend the collar) work best. But you'll likely want a higher quality than a regular button up shirt from American Eagle. If your shirt is "button down" (it has tiny buttons to button the collar to the shirt), that is okay too, but you'll have to cut the tiny buttons off.

My spouse exclusively wears long sleeve clergy shirts, but there is no reason this couldn't work with short sleeve shirts as well. I have found that Nautica and Dockers brand shirts work well (you can let them know they owe me money for the endorsement).

Note: If you're shopping without the person who will be wearing the shirt, be sure to get their neck measurements. The top button will have to be buttoned, so you don't want to get one that's too tight!



Step 2: Cut the collar

Unbutton the top two buttons of the shirt. We aren't making the collar opening much bigger than it already is, we are just sewing it straight down in the style of a clergy collar, so we don't have to cut too much. I usually cut right past the stitch that is already there. Cut as close to the neck as possible so there is no extra fabric. This is why *fabric* scissors are so important (remember the special ones your mom didn't let you use when you were younger? Get you a pair of those!). Repeat on the other side.




Step 3: Fold the collar under and pin

We want the collar to be straight down, so we won't fold the collar over evenly. There will likely be more excess fabric on the top than on the bottom (the opposite of what is pictured below, actually). Do this on both collars. Pin it securely on both sides, button the top two buttons of the shirt, and place the tab collar in the opening to make sure it looks correct and even on both sides. Once it looks to your satisfaction, take the tab out, unbutton the top two buttons, and lay the collar out flat to sew.




Note: sometimes it's easier to get this just right if you put it on the person who will be wearing the shirt. That way you can see exactly how it is going to lay once it's on. If that's not possible, just remember that the shirt collar will be straight across when worn with the tab, instead of a "v" like when you wear a normal button up shirt without the top button closed.


Step 4: Sew the collar

Sew from the edge you cut (closest to the neck) to the finished edge. Use a thread that matches the existing stitching of the shirt. The closest you get to the rest of the shirt's style and color, the more finished it will look. Be sure to back stitch and forward stitch twice to secure the stitch on both ends. Repeat on both sides.




Step 5: Fold the excess fabric under and pin

This is the most finicky part, but the more malleable the shirt collar, the easier it will be. Fold the excess bottom fabric (the pointy part) under the collar and pin. Make sure you don't pin it too tight or the tab won't fit. You can use the tab as a guide as you fold it under. You'll see that it is pinned a bit at an angle so that your new stitch will eventually run right into the existing stitch on the bottom of the collar.




Step 6: Sew the collar down

Starting at the open end, sew along the edge of the collar to secure it to the shirt. You will sew right into the existing stitch of the collar. Be sure to back stitch and forward stitch twice to secure the stitch on both ends. Repeat on both sides and make sure the tab fits!



You can see in the picture above that it's not *perfect* but it only took me about ten minutes while the baby ate breakfast. Plus, it only cost me $5 for the shirt! You can't really beat that. My favorite thing is that you can take your favorite brand and the right fit and convert it easily, so there's no need to be uncomfortable in a collar!

I haven't tried to convert any of my shirts into clergy shirts because I mostly wear my janey, so I don't know the complications that might occur with that (perhaps the collar is too thin to fold under?), but if you try it and run into issues (or if it works really well), comment below and let me know!










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